Stephane Humbert Lucas Mortal Skin EDP

Description

Mortal Skin is dark fruit and resin: blackberry and saffron over opoponax, iris and ambergris. Stéphane Humbert Lucas composed it in 2015 for his Paris house, Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777, and the serpent is its theme: charming, elegant and mysterious, in the house's own words. Blackberry opens it with a juicy darkness, sharpened by cardamom and saffron. The heart pairs sweet, balsamic opoponax with powdery iris and sandalwood, and the base settles into labdanum, musk and ambergris. It plays warm against cool the whole way through.

Scent Character

Translation: spice leads by a wide margin, from saffron and cardamom to the resinous warmth of opoponax and labdanum. Sandalwood gives the woody share, iris the floral one, and the blackberry keeps it from turning heavy.

Fragrance Pyramid

• Top: Blackberry, Saffron, Cardamom
• Heart: Sandalwood, Opoponax, Iris
• Base: Labdanum, Musk, Ambergris

Some retailers list a longer formula that also names an ink accord, myrrh, rockrose and birch. The pyramid above is the one the house publishes today.

Performance

Longevity: Roughly 7 to 9 hours. Labdanum and ambergris last longest.
Sillage: Moderate to strong for the first couple of hours.
Projection: 2 to 3 feet early on, then it settles to arm's length.

An honest note: resinous scents like this change a lot with skin and temperature. Start with one or two sprays.

Best Occasions & Season

Best from Fall through early Spring, and in the evening or on a night out. Resins and blackberry get rich in summer heat. Unisex. Skip it if you prefer clean or bright scents.

Concentration & Provenance

Concentration: Eau de Parfum
Perfumer: Stéphane Humbert Lucas
House: Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777, Paris, France
Launched: 2015

Try Before You Commit

A hand-poured 1mL decant is $11.99, and a 5mL is $49.99 if you want a few weeks of evenings with it before you decide.

100% Authentic

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FAQ

Is Mortal Skin men's or women's?
Unisex. The iris and blackberry soften the resins and spice.

How long does it last?
Around 7 to 9 hours for most people. The labdanum-ambergris base lingers longest.

Is there an ink note?
Some retailers describe an inky accord in the opening. The house's current pyramid lists blackberry, saffron and cardamom at the top.

Is it sweet?
Only a little. Blackberry and opoponax add some sweetness, but spice and resin dominate.