Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendre EDP

Description

Iris Cendré is iris seen through ash and smoke: powdery and creamy, with a cool, mineral edge. The name means “ashen iris”. Perfumer Julien Rasquinet worked on it from 2013 until its release in September 2015, building it around a rich orris material. Bergamot, mandarin and a touch of spice open it. The heart is iris and violet, rooty and creamy rather than sweet, veiled in incense, and tobacco, labdanum and amber give it warmth underneath. Naomi Goodsir, the Australian-born milliner based in Paris, began making fragrances in 2012 with the same approach she brings to her hats: texture first, and a refined surface with something rebellious underneath. Reviewers describe a poised iris that the ashy note keeps from ever becoming merely pretty.

Fragrance Pyramid

• Top: Bergamot, Mandarin Orange, Spicy Notes, Floral Notes
• Heart: Iris, Violet, Incense
• Base: Tobacco, Labdanum, Amber

Performance

Longevity: Very good. Many wearers report 10–12 hours or more.
Sillage: Soft to moderate.
Projection: Average for the first hour, then it stays close to the skin.

An honest note: it is quiet rather than loud. People around you notice it up close, and you will keep catching it on yourself all day.

Best Occasions & Season

Best in Fall and Spring, when cool air suits the powdery iris and smoke. It works for the office, everyday wear and quiet weekends. It is unisex. Skip it if you want something bright or sweet: this is dry, cool and contemplative.

Concentration & Provenance

Concentration: Eau de Parfum
Perfumer: Julien Rasquinet
House: Naomi Goodsir, Paris, France
Launched: 2015, with no reformulation on record

100% Authentic

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FAQ

What does Iris Cendré smell like?
Powdery, rooty iris and violet with a cool ashy smoke, warmed by tobacco and amber as it dries down.

Is it men's or women's?
Unisex. The incense and tobacco give the iris a dry, grown-up character that suits anyone.

Is it very powdery?
It is powdery, but the smoky, mineral note keeps it from feeling like cosmetics or lipstick.

How long does it last?
Usually well over 10 hours, worn close to the skin.