Naomi Goodsir Or Du Serail EDP

Description

Or du Sérail is golden, honey-soaked tobacco with a splash of rum and tropical fruit. Composed by Bertrand Duchaufour and released in 2014, it takes its mood from Eugène Delacroix's Orientalist paintings. Mango, red berries, apple and sweet orange open it, followed by rum and coconut, with maté, ylang-ylang, sage, artemisia and geranium adding a dry, herbal counterweight. The base is honey, tobacco, beeswax, vanilla, amber, oak, labdanum, cedar and musk. Naomi Goodsir, the Australian-born milliner based in Paris, began making fragrances in 2012 with the same approach she brings to her hats: texture first, and a refined surface with something rebellious underneath. Reviewers love the rum-laced fruit that gives way to sweet pipe tobacco, rich without ever feeling sticky.

Fragrance Pyramid

• Top: Mango, Red Berries, Apple, Sweet Orange
• Heart: Rum, Coconut, Maté, Ylang-Ylang, Sage, Artemisia, Geranium
• Base: Honey, Tobacco, Beeswax, Vanilla, Amber, Oak, Labdanum, Cedar, Musk

Performance

Longevity: Around 8–10 hours on skin for most wearers.
Sillage: Moderate.
Projection: Average, about arm's length, then a close, honeyed drydown.

An honest note: a few reviewers find it fading in around four hours, so skin chemistry plays a part.

Best Occasions & Season

Best in Fall and Winter, for evenings, relaxed everyday wear and weekends. It is unisex. Skip it in hot weather, when the honey and rum can feel heavy.

Concentration & Provenance

Concentration: Eau de Parfum
Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour
House: Naomi Goodsir, Paris, France
Launched: 2014, with no reformulation on record

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FAQ

What does Or du Sérail smell like?
Rum-soaked tropical fruit and coconut first, then sweet honeyed pipe tobacco and beeswax over amber and woods.

Is it men's or women's?
Unisex. It suits anyone who likes sweet tobacco fragrances.

Is it very sweet?
It is on the sweet side, thanks to the honey, rum and fruit, but the sage, maté and tobacco keep it balanced.

How long does it last?
Usually 8–10 hours, though a few wearers report less.