Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite EDP
Description
Nuit de Bakélite is tuberose with the sweetness stripped away: green, waxy and sharp, like sap from a freshly cut stem. Composed by Isabelle Doyen over four years of work with Naomi Goodsir, it was first shown at Esxence in Milan in 2014 and officially launched in 2017. Galbanum is the main green note, backed by tomato leaf, angelica and violet leaf. Tuberose, ylang-ylang, orris, carrot seed and karo karounde form the heart, with a hint of cardamom, and the base turns darker with artemisia, leather, styrax, tobacco, guaiac wood and labdanum. Naomi Goodsir, the Australian-born milliner based in Paris, began making fragrances in 2012 with the same approach she brings to her hats: texture first, and a refined surface with something rebellious underneath. Reviewers call it one of the greenest tuberoses ever made.
Fragrance Pyramid
- Top: Galbanum, Tomato Leaf, Angelica, Violet Leaf
- Heart: Tuberose, Ylang-Ylang, Orris, Carrot Seed, Karo Karounde, Cardamom
- Base: Artemisia, Leather, Styrax, Tobacco, Guaiac Wood, Labdanum
Performance
Longevity: Exceptional. Reviewers report 12–14 hours on skin and days on fabric.
Sillage: Very strong, especially in the opening.
Projection: It fills a room early on and keeps a clear trail for hours.
An honest note: this is a powerful fragrance. One or two sprays is plenty, and it is not a quiet choice for a shared office.
Best Occasions & Season
Best in Spring and Fall, when the green notes feel fresh rather than sharp. It suits evenings, gallery openings, dinners and any day you want a fragrance people remember. It is unisex. Skip it if you prefer creamy, sweet tuberoses: this one is bitter-green and leathery.
Concentration & Provenance
Concentration: Eau de Parfum
Perfumer: Isabelle Doyen
House: Naomi Goodsir, Paris, France
Launched: 2017 (first presented at Esxence 2014)
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FAQ
What does Nuit de Bakélite smell like?
A green, bitter tuberose: galbanum and crushed leaves first, then waxy white flowers, drying down to leather, styrax and woods.
Is it men's or women's?
Unisex. The galbanum and leather make it far less traditionally feminine than most tuberose fragrances.
Does it smell of plastic?
No. The name refers to Bakelite, the early plastic, as a mood. The note reviewers mention is a waxy, rubbery quality in the green tuberose, not a synthetic smell.
How strong is it?
Very. Expect a room-filling opening and a long, strong trail, so apply lightly.